Durres appears to wear its history lightly. Like the Albanian people we have met so far, there's a polite self-effacement about its approach towards visitors. The city seems to say: If you're not too busy and have time and inclination, perhaps you'd care to look at these remarkable places and hear some of our astonishing stories. Fortunately, we have plenty of time and loads of inclination so have been richly rewarded, as was Edward Lear.
Lear travelled around Albania in the latter part of 1848 and came to Durres (then known as Durazzo) in October. In his Journals of a Landscape Painter in Albania (1851) he provides a fascinating and quirky account of his travels around the country. He writes: ‘Albania is a puzzle of the highest order’ and, specifically about Durres, ‘there is a musical atmosphere in Durazzo and I hear many melodious hummings.’ We can confirm the puzzle is a delight and there’s still an attractive harmony to be heard here.
Lear’s travel preparations were more comprehensive than ours: ‘Previously to starting, a certain supply of cooking utensils, tin plates, knives and forks, a basin etc must absolutely be purchased…for you go into lands where pots and pans are unknown.’ Let me reassure you that you don’t need your own kitchen hardware these days (and anyway you’d never get them through airport security). We are staying in a comfortable and well appointed apartment, full of as many pots and pans as anyone is likely to need. Since there’s also an abundance of restaurants and cafes serving a variety of delicious food at a fraction of UK prices, you might not even want any of them.
However, we share Lear’s initial impressions of the area: ‘When we arrived at the highest point, the view was very beautiful with a wide expanse of blue sea stretching northward to the long slender promontory of Durazzo.’
In his time, Lear made sketches of the Byzantine castle.
All that remains now are remnants of the city walls and two towers, one of which is the Venetian Tower overlooking the Adriatic coastline. This has been recently renovated and we strongly recommend a visit to its roof.
Not only is the view wonderful but they have installed a series of multimedia periscopes. When you move them, they respond by showing films, maps, sketches and a history of the city.
Perhaps the most memorable is the black & white film of the Italian invasion of Durres in 1939. In these days of invasions and conflicts, it’s particularly poignant to read the plaque that accompanies the movie:
‘April 7th 1939 was Good Friday. What you are looking at is archival footage of the landing of Italian troops in the port of Durres. The invasion came as a result of an ultimatum delivered by Mussolini on March 25th 1939, demanding Albania’s annexation. Italian warships bombarded the Albanian coast followed by troop landings. On April 12th the Albanian Parliament surrendered , leading to King Vittorio Emanuele taking the crown of Albania.’
Great first paragraph; it really made me want more. I want to visit Durres :)
I love the enfolding of time in this post - from Lear, his writing and drawing, to the filmed invasion to your own writing and photos of discovery. More, please!