18 Comments
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Ali Rowland's avatar

Beautiful photographs. Sounds like you really enjoyed the city built on sand.

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Ben Moore's avatar

Quite felt the exotic there. Travel eh?

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Allan Sutherland's avatar

Travel, yeah, you can't beat it!

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Gary's avatar

"Someone else's somewhere." A memorable line that provokes so much thought. Thanks Alan

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Allan Sutherland's avatar

Thanks Gary - it seemed somehow dismissive and disrespectful to refer to a place as the 'middle of nowhere'. I'd be interested to hear what thoughts it provokes for you.

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Clarice Dankers's avatar

What a lovely, evocative tale of Khiva! I especially love these lines:

Old Khiva is, magnificently and wondrously, built on sand. We sense the desert whenever we enter the walls through the east gate, which is only five minutes walk from our guest house. We taste it in the salty tang of morning as we walk through dusty streets, full of souvenir stalls, tea houses and other tourists exploring mosques, empty palaces, minarets and madrassas.

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Allan Sutherland's avatar

Many thanks Clarice. I enjoyed writing those lines as they seemed to capture some of the mysterious evanescence of the city. I wonder if you find the same with your writing - that is, the uncertainty of memory and then the attempt to find the words that express both the memory and the uncertainty.

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Clarice Dankers's avatar

That's true, Alan, although I never thought of this before. Mostly I struggle to find words that express how I felt in a particular place. I think it is the feelings I remember the most. Then I research the details to back up the feelings.

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Flavio Massignan's avatar

After being to Kyrgyzstan I wanted to visit Uzbekistan, I hope I can do it soon, thank you for sharing your experience!

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Allan Sutherland's avatar

Thanks Flavio - I hope you can soon visit Uzbekistan, it's such a magical place. We've been to Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan and were really taken by surprise at its lovely, laid-back feeling. I look forward to following you on Substack.

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Gary's avatar

Exactly what you said. I too reckon it is insulting to refer to somewhere as the middle of nowhere. It made me think of the lives led in these places, the loves given and received

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Chris Burnett's avatar

I love all of Allan's writing but this one was particularly descriptive and I could visualise being there and feeling the excitement, worry and relief. The feelings were real and came to life.

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Allan Sutherland's avatar

Thanks Chris - I'm so pleased you enjoyed it.

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Arwen Webb's avatar

I remember my first sleeper train from Hyderabad to Kovalam in India…36 hours or something. Falling asleep to the rhythm of the tracks, you describe it so well! We would wake up and the carriage would be full of men, staring at us. I became skilled at getting changed inside my sleeping bag liner, with an audience!

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Allan Sutherland's avatar

Thanks Arwen - your sleeper in India sounds like quite an experience! Perhaps you could write about it one day?

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Arwen Webb's avatar

I transcribed my diary and letters and blogged it but then took it down for some reason. I wish I hadn’t! Substack would be a good medium for it. Thanks Allan, hope you’re well.

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Cassie's avatar

I love the description of Old Khiva, your writing and photos have made me put Khiva on my ‘must go to’ list!

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Allan Sutherland's avatar

Thanks Cass - it's definitely worth a visit!

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